Provence Part Deux | Lourmarin in the Luberon

I know what you're thinking. I swear, I really do.  Sunny Provence again??? Here we are, well into Fall and while pretty much everyone everywhere eagerly turned the calendar page and has been happily preoccupied with visions of pumpkins, apple pies, spiced cider, bonfires and beautifully colored falling leaves, here I am stuck in some kind of summer time warp, still waxing poetic about lovely lazy summer days in Provence. (But just look at it! Can you blame me?)

Oddly, while it now seems a zillion days ago since we returned, it is incredible to think that these images of blue skies and sunshine were taken just a few short weeks ago!  How is that for an Indian summer! Just another thing to love about the South of France.  

MARKET DAY IN LOURMARIN

Weekly markets abound in this region and you can find much pretty much any size and type to match your interests and needs.  I personally think the festive Lourmarin Friday market is one of the most enjoyable and best in the area.  With a fabulous mix of  fresh produce, artisan cheeses, wine tasting, live music, arts & crafts and gorgeous vintage goods like silverware and jewelry, there really is something for everyone.

LA PLACE des DELICES

 Place du Moulin, Rue du Temple,  84160 

  SO much more than a sumptuous patisserie and shop, this hidden gem set in a tranquil  fountained courtyard behind one of the town's main squares transforms into an intimate upscale evening restaurant.  Chef Jeremie Pinto's exquisite tasting menu was hands down one of the best meals we have had in Provence, or anywhere else for that matter. Honestly, do yourself a favor and don't miss it.  

LA MAISON CAFE

 2 Montee du Galinier, Lourmarin, 84160

  As with everything in Lourmarin, this cafe & bar possesses an essential chameleon ability to transform  itself from a laid back sun-filled terrace in the afternoon, to a dark and sultry den of cool designed for sipping champagne and listening to live music under the stars.  You probably won't feel like you're still in Provence, but you could easily be convinced you were on the riviera, and isn't that just reason enough to pay it a visit?

* * * * * 

Lourmarin in the Luberon. (I dare you to say that three times fast...) If you liked what you saw of St. Remy, you are sure to develop a pretty serious crush on this village.  Lourmarin is like St. Remy's hip younger sister. The Pippa Middleton to St. Remy's Kate.  The puckish Harry to the more refined Wills.  (I'm running out of royal analogies but you get the idea!) Where St. Remy epitomizes the classic natural charm of Provence, Lourmarin shows its slightly more eclectic side with some wonderful galleries, street art, buzzing little cafes that turn cocktail lounges in the evening and a festive main square routinely filled with the sounds of people and live jazz.

So that's it for now, I promise. No more time warp. Believe me, I can not wait to jump in full force and catch up with the Fall festivities that have been going on all around me (and yes OF COURSE the cooking!!  I promise there is some fab-u-lous and fun Autumn comfort food I can't wait to get experimenting on!)  But first I just needed to enjoy one last glimpse of sun.  One last blue sky.  One last memory of warm breezes, lazy days and the smell of rosemary and thyme wafting gently by.  Come on admit it, you're thisclose to jumping on that plane.  Au revoir for now!

A Stroll Through Provence | Les Alpilles

Happy Friday!  At long last, I've managed to sort through all the images, recipes and memories from our recent trip to Provence.  Admittedly this is probably the biggest downside of to going to a place that I am so passionate about that is literally overflowing with inspiration and eye candy. There is simply too much to share and it is so difficult to edit down to just the best bits! I now understand the genius behind the book A Year in Provence--a couple of weeks is just to short to cover this incredible area!

As the weekend is now here, I have decided to make this post a leisurely stroll through charming little villages, beautiful countryside and exquisite scenery, not to mention some amazing local food (of course!) This is Provence the way it's meant to be done, so take your time, hunker down with a frothy cappuccino, kick back and enjoy! 

THE STREETS OF SAINT-REMY-de-PROVENCE  

L'AILE OU LA CUISSE

5 Rue de la Commune  *  13210 Saint-Remy-de-Provence 

"The Wing or the Thigh"

Despite its name, the menu at this upscale bistro-style restaurant in the heart of the village is geared much more toward a selection of savory meat and seafood dishes.  Wait until the finale when you are presented with a gorgeous array of decadent homemade desserts.  We have never managed not to give in!

LA FONTAINE

19 Boulevard Mirabeau   *  13210 Saint-Remy-de-Provence 

This family-run restaurant and glacier is lively and always buzzing.  Sitting beside one of St. Remy's famous fountains, it is arguably the best location in town for sipping a cappuccino and watching the world go by.  La Fontaine also holds a sentimental place in my heart as the site of a spontaneous late night dinner party I was invited to join by a group of festive locals on my first night ever in St. Remy several years ago.  As you can see, it is also the preferred hangout for some of the town's four-legged residents.

Without question, one of the biggest draws of Provence is the lifestyle.  Coming from a place like London, the French approach to life in general (and the South of France specifically) is SLOW.  This is a place to leisurely stroll and sip your coffee, casually peruse weekend markets and take everything at your own pace. AND of course to partake in several beloved local traditions: a glass of rosé, an afternoon aperitif of Pastis and a game of Petanque.

  

I have been fantasizing about leisurely afternoons of Pastis and Petanque ever since we spontaneously bought an authentic set of boules during last year's holiday with visions of using them during many warm summer afternoons back in London. Needless to say that didn't exactly happen once we returned home to the chaos of normal life.  However this year my patience finally paid off when we arrived to discover our property had its very own Petanque pitch. Major score! (Speaking of score, that is a different story.  As with everything, David was an ace straight out of the starting gate. However, I managed to make an impressive showing towards the end, thanks no doubt to equal parts practice and the Pastis!)

OLIVES & VINES 

While I used to associate Provence more with images of lavender and sunflowers (and in certain seasons, these are definitely abundant in the region) when I return these days, I now find myself longing for the exquisite olive groves and gently rolling fields of vines that cover so much of the terrain here. Without question, rosé wine and olive oil are two products Provence does to perfection.   

In our opinion, Mas des Barres and Moulin Castellas are among the very best olive oil producers we have encountered in either France or Italy, and a whether you are a casual gourmand or an expert cook, a visit and casual tasting is highly recommended. We never fail to return home loaded down with armfuls of their beautiful olive oils, soaps and some incredible salty green olives cassé.  

EYGALIERES

Eygalieres is one of those places you just shouldn't miss.  The village is located just a few kilometers outside of St. Remy, yet has a distinctly different charm and feel all to its own, and is surrounded by so many poplar trees and vineyards that you would easily be forgiven for believing you had actually  entered Tuscany.  

It is also a divine slice of paradise for foodies.  Despite it's small size, this picturesque little village punches well above its weight in the dining category with a disproportionate number of surprisingly chic little bars and restaurants in what would otherwise be a small sleepy little village. It is also home to the highly regarded, 2-Michelin-star rated restaurant Chez Bru and its more casual little sister, Bistro d'Eygalieres in the center of the village.  

Fortunately, prior to indulging we were able to fit in a brisk walk up through the town, capped off by a steep treck to visit the ruins sitting high above the village. Both the views and the calorie-burning benefits are definitely not to be missed!